Question for painters

[5-13 Studios]

well, i can give an opinion, not only from miniature painting, but from years of commercial painting as well. solvent based paints and clears, especially lacquers, yellow over time. now, some paints, even though they are fully cured, "gas out" over time. this gassing out is what tends to make paints brittle and flake off over long periods of time, and it also can change the tint in a color. of course, the color that a change would be most recognized would be white.
now, personally, lacquers and enamels have been the worst culprits that i have come across. however, i have seen some acrylics do some strange things, but it usually takes bizarre conditions.

[Vince148]

So, Joe...You're using a coat BEFORE decaling, then again AFTER decaling?

Are you using a primer before painting as well?

[Coach K-LO]

since i started using ployurathene, my paint jobs have lasted without yellowing......

[Coach Rip]

is the handling of the actual figures. I always pick up a figure by the base or it's platform.

ALL of us have oils in our skin, ......................Some of us have more oil in our skin than others, but I have many teams which I have had for 10 years or so and none of them have yellowed. I will also add that I have used many different types of clear coats. Testors dull cote, delta ceramcoat and others included.

I know many of us play at pizza shops, and other places, even our houses where we serve food. Chips, pizza, fries, and others things have oils and other things on them that if one isn't careful about handling the figures will get on the figure and any of that stuff will turn over time as it oxidizes.

Rule of thumb, ....... always have clean hands or some type of wet nap around if you are eating, and handle the figures by the base or platform, and I 'm pretty sure most of your yellowing problems will subside.

Store figures from Sun Light, ....

[artlax]

Any enamel paint or spray will yellow over time and be clearly evident on white - more than other colors.

The only way to avoid is to use acrylic paints and sealers.

Testors Model Master is making some great acrylics now that adhere very well.

Some other acrylics do not - and may scratch/wear off over time.

Also - for a sealer I use only MicroScales clear finishes - flat for the bodies and gloss for the helmets.

[Geno H]

I am not a good painter but I do paint my own teams. The first figures I painted I clear coated with spray can acrylic. It yellowed in about 10 months. I then switched to Delta ceramcoat clear brush on. Over 2 years now and no yellowing. Thats my experience. I had assumed it was the propellant in the spray can..........


Geno H

[Hook'em Horns]

so much! I appreciate all of you guys help on this. I have some delta ceramcoat interior/exterior varnish as well. I've actually had it for a long time. I never really knew when to apply it. I would always apply it over the modge podge after it dried. Perhaps I will try your idea Michigan Joe of applying it to the paint before decailing and then again after decaling.

Here is what I use...

I use acrylic paints. I have never coated prior to decaling. I have always coated with Modge Podge and the delta cermacoat interior/exterior varnish over top.

5-13 I will take a look at that link. I will update you guys over time if things get better.

Thanks again! Gotta love this forum?

[Terry Popham]

In my own experience spray-on clear coats will yellow in a short time, with the exception of Krylon Krystal Klear. The best way to seal a paint job is what has been stated already here, Delta Ceramcoat. I also use Decoart thick gloss on the helmets and stands. These are brush-on so you can be sure whether you have sealed the entire figure.

[mark robin]

nice to see you post terry. weve sure missed your expertise.

[Coach K-LO]

Originally Posted by Coach Rip

is the handling of the actual figures. I always pick up a figure by the base or it's platform.

ALL of us have oils in our skin, ......................Some of us have more oil in our skin than others, but I have many teams which I have had for 10 years or so and none of them have yellowed. I will also add that I have used many different types of clear coats. Testors dull cote, delta ceramcoat and others included.

I know many of us play at pizza shops, and other places, even our houses where we serve food. Chips, pizza, fries, and others things have oils and other things on them that if one isn't careful about handling the figures will get on the figure and any of that stuff will turn over time as it oxidizes.

Rule of thumb, ....... always have clean hands or some type of wet nap around if you are eating, and handle the figures by the base or platform, and I 'm pretty sure most of your yellowing problems will subside.

Store figures from Sun Light, ....

thanks another helpful hint!!